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- DIALOGS
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DIALOGS WITH ADRIANA ZALACAIN - CUS
We invite you to meet Adriana Zalacain, the creative mind behind Cus, a brand that aims to transcend the conventional boundaries of sustainability in fashion. Adriana combines her love for creativity with a deep understanding of the environmental and social challenges we face today.
Join us as we talk with her about her inspiration, vision and her commitment to taking fashion to the next level in terms of sustainability.
How was Cus born? What made you decide to create a brand with such ethical and sustainable implications?
Cus was born about 11 years ago with the philosophy of being a sustainable brand from the beginning. We have always maintained a local production and have established specific criteria for our fabrics, focusing on naturalness and avoiding the use of viscose and synthetic fabrics. Although this development process was gradual, it was sustainable and successful, especially in the international market, where the brand was very well received.
However, after about 8 years of operation, I felt the need to rethink our brand, as it was not being completely satisfactory for me on a personal level. The growth of the company implied a series of responsibilities that, as a designer, were not particularly rewarding.
It was at that moment, motivated by a personal, somewhat extreme situation, that I made the decision to change something fundamental in the direction of the brand. I was devoting more and more time to logistical issues and less and less to creative design, beauty and enjoying the pleasurable moments that are experienced when surrounded by inspiration.
One of the fundamental pillars of the brand for me has always been sustainability. At the time, the word 'sustainability' was starting to appear everywhere, and this led me to reflect on what it really meant to me and how I could take my product one step further in a market saturated with 'sustainable' brands.
It was in this context that the idea of having my own workshop came up, something I had always been excited about. I was attracted to the concept and the implications of having my own workshop.
EXPERIMENTATION WITH NATURAL DYES
Of the whole process of creating a garment, what part do you enjoy the most? What inspires you when designing a collection?
The world of color fascinates me. I enjoy linking myself to books that have captivated me, those in which I have found a unique visual pleasure. Just by looking at them, they inspire me to create a color palette that speaks to the essence of the book or artist. Colors have a special place in my creative process, but they are not the only important elements; shapes also play a crucial role.
Recently, I embarked on a project to recover old and vintage patterns and transform them. The decision to establish my own atelier increased the brand's expenses, which posed a dilemma: increase garment prices or cut costs? I opted for the second option. This has led me to take on tasks related to creativity such as photography, which I have tackled with enthusiasm. For example, as far as patterns are concerned, I am recovering and transforming designs we already had. The truth is that I am enjoying this process enormously, as limited resources push us to be more creative and to rethink how to reinvent garments with the means available.
ADRIANA IN HER ATELIER
Setting up your own shop is a bold step in the quest for transparency. What benefits have you found in handling your production in-house and how is it reflected in the customer experience?
I'm really excited about this new direction we've taken. It's true that we are building everything from scratch, and this process is not easy, but I am genuinely happy with the results so far. From day one in this new workspace, everything has gone exceptionally well.
The experience is fantastic; I can design in my office and, in just a few steps, be in direct contact with the women of the workshop, who contribute their knowledge enriching each project. The immediacy of this interaction is very rewarding.
Previously, I had never had a store of my own, but this new direction has allowed us to forge special bonds with our wholesale customers. I love to invite them to visit our workshop, see the space on Seneca Street (Barcelona) and witness how their order materializes thanks to the work of our seamstresses. I find this an extremely enriching experience, a process of total radical transparency!
The choice of organic and natural materials is fundamental in your brand. In fact, we very often see you on social media sharing how you experiment with natural dyes or different fabrics. How do you select these materials and what criteria do you follow to make sure they are truly sustainable?
Since there is no standard definition for sustainability in the textile industry, I have established my own criteria for fabric selection. In my current position, my main focus is to avoid using synthetic fibers. This means that I only work with natural fibers such as cotton, linen, tencel or ecovero.
The reason behind this decision lies in the fact that fabrics containing synthetic fibers are not recyclable, which completely excludes them from any possibility of contributing to a circular economy.
How do you envision the future of Cus, and do you have plans for further progress in terms of sustainability and transparency in the coming years?
One of the peculiarities of this project was the creation of a brand in which growth was not necessarily linked to the increase in volume, but focused on the sustainability of the same. Therefore, the future of Cus is focused on sustaining itself and continuing to do what I am passionate about. In other words, my goal is to continue to develop my work as I do today, which could be compared to the concept of 'growing my own garden,' getting by in everyday life and working with those limited resources.
