HOW IS AN ANKLE BOOT MADE?

enero 19, 2022
SHOP STORIES
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HOW IS AN ANKLE BOOT MADE?

Our dedication to craftsmanship means we often visit the factories where Naguisa boots and shoes take form. With the sad feeling that this beautiful artisan tradition could be lost, we use our camera to document the work and the words of those who know the most about the trade. These voices and hands tell the story of an arduous journey of meticulous work, and of the joy that comes with seeing the beauty of a finished shoe. Discover the beautiful art of making boots.

How is an ankle boot made?

Our dedication to artisanal work means we often visit the factories where Naguisa boots and shoes take form. With the sad feeling that this beautiful artisan tradition could be lost, we use our camera to document the work and the words of the people who know the most about the trade. These voices and hands tell the story of an arduous journey of meticulous work, and of the joy that comes with seeing the beauty of a finished shoe.

The design process

The creative process begins in the studio, where Claudia and Sofía draw, wrap, and prototype the “lasts.” Together with Pablo, they verify the ergonomics, the movement of the foot, and the fit. They choose the materials for the design and send them to the factory that will craft the style.

Depending on the lasts and the silhouettes, we choose specific artisans according to their expertise. Next, we’ll walk you through the process of creating the BURÁN style, mid-calf boot with a heel.

Burán: bringing the idea to life.

Following the most authentic traditions, the artisan cuts each piece of leather for the shoe by hand. Using cardboard patterns and a sharp knife, they choose the best tanned pieces of leather and cut each of the small pieces. The cutter’s experience matters a lot, since the grain of the leather, the different tones, and the flexibility need to be taken into account for a strong final result.

Before being sewn, Buran’s pieces must be prepared and marked according to the size and location of the seams and zippers. In this case, the Burán model is made of the insole, the tongue, the vamps (which are double height) and the interior lining.

This joining process, or “aparaje,” is a complex puzzle where the seamstress turns the pieces into a 3D version of the shoe. This process is accomplished using special leather sewing machines that offer different stitching options, or by pre-gluing some of the pieces for subsequent sewing.

The seamstress also adds the eyelets and the zippers before the shoe is heat stabilized. During this stage, the boot also undergoes an exhaustive inspection of all the seams to ensure that there are no defects that could detract from its comfort.

Finally, adhesive is used to join the leather sole with the lined heel (if you’d like to learn how a sole is created, we explain it here) and it’s pressed to activate the glue and ensure they stay joined for life. The process of making each Naguisa design varies, but they all involve many hours of work, different high-quality materials, and many skilled hands that have mastered each of the different phases. That’s why at Naguisa, we firmly believe that a pair of handmade shoes are special and unique. If we take care of them and treasure them, they’ll last a lifetime.