A MORNING WITH THE DESIGN TEAM

Welcome to the wonderful idea factory of NAGUISA! Today we introduce you to Claudia, Sofía and Paula, the team behind the new SS23 Olivia collection. These three women are the creative compass of the brand, and today they invite us to visit their studio-workshop to learn more about how ideas are born and then transformed into comfortable espadrilles and sandals.

Get ready to enter a world of colours, shapes and textures, where talent and passion for design combine to create something truly comfortable and functional. Follow us on this visit to the NAGUISA design team!

Claudia, as founder and creative director of the brand, how do you see the evolution of Naguisa? Tell us what your role is now and what the name of the Olivia collection means to you.

10, 9, 8…5 years ago, it would be Pablo and I who would be answering these questions. But how much NAGUISA has grown! I am proud that there are now other people starting and closing the design process of each collection. My job now is to accompany and push the team to make decisions. What requirements must a new NAGUISA model meet? It must be functional, innovative and have a recognizable aesthetic of the brand.

My involvement is key at two points in the development: the launch of the prototypes to the factory and the definition of the colour. This last phase has always been my favourite, the one I enjoy the most. It is like “putting the icing on the cake”. The definition of the concept of the collection, which will involve all the communication throughout the season, is defined based on what worries me at that moment, what I have in mind, what I long for or desire. Olivia means “woman who defends peace”. A year ago, at the height of the outbreak of the Ukrainian War, we began to design this collection. It was a disturbing moment that stirred us all inside. I knew the meaning of Olivia very well; it is the name of our second daughter, a girl with a lot of energy, spontaneous and overflowing with love. Olivia occupied my mind for a large part of my time at that time.

And now I give way to Sofia and Paula, of whom I couldn't be more proud, for their good work and their involvement. Sofia is responsible for the sewing line (espadrilles) and Paula for the assembly line (braided sandals).

Sofia, where do you find the inspiration for each collection to be different? And specifically, what is OLIVIA inspired by?

It may sound a bit trite, but the fact is that inspiration can really be found everywhere. In my case, coming from an industrial design background, I tend to always pay attention to the details, composition, material, and aesthetics of the products that surround me. Everything we live with has gone through a creative process, and it's interesting to imagine what was behind it.

In the case of Olivia's collection, it was something that moved us all and an event that marked a change in the global state, the beginning of the war in Ukraine. Linking with the theme of inspiration, there are and have been world situations that have marked directions in the emotional and mental state of people, and even things like these can lead you to create concepts and colors that make us see the beauty within the chaos. The idea arose from the theme of peace and the reference of a drawing by Picasso, “Dove of Peace”, we continued to unravel the symbolism and the concept until we reached the olive tree that became “Olivia” which means “she who protects peace”.

Paula, how did you experience the design process of this collection?

The design processes of each collection usually share the phases that we go through to develop the final product, but each of them has its own uniqueness. For example, at OLIVIA we have developed several new lasts or certain technical challenges have appeared in relation to a specific design. The truth is that it is exciting to experience the process.

And you, Sofia?

In the case of the jute collection, there was a new challenge which was to generate all our designs, from the concept to the pattern making, completely internally and implementing the digitalization of the patterns with a 3D program for footwear.

Do you think there is a purpose or perhaps even a set of values ​​that constantly permeate the design process of NAGUISA?

Sofia: Yes, respect for the process, the value of craftsmanship, comfort and unifying all of this with color and materials. The world of footwear is what it is, the union of craftsmanship, human value and industrial production.

Paula: Of course. From the point where inspiration comes from, to the value we give to the artisanal part, innovation, respect, teamwork… Another value I find in the process is living it surrounded by many women, colleagues, inspirations and role models.

Have you encountered any challenges working on this collection?

Paula: This has been my first collection with NAGUISA and it has been a real challenge to experience the design process of the braiding part, from the search and development of new lasts to the definition of the silhouettes of the models.

Sofia: Yes, in my case, it was a new challenge, incorporating the digitalization of the pattern making and preparing the models for cutting with an industrial machine. This is a big step for us as a brand, to be able to generate ideas and design lines, and carry them out just as we had them in mind.

How do you work with colour and materials?

We are usually guided by many factors… the ideas and concepts we have at the beginning of the collection, themes that make us feel in terms of textures and colors; and another large part in the search for leathers and fabrics that fit with the idea we have in mind.

Having worked with jute for over 10 years, does this force you to create new perspectives?

I suppose that in the creative world, you are always looking for new perspectives because your body is constantly asking for change. In the case of jute, being a handcrafted product, it is interesting to always try to give a new look to such a deep-rooted product. That is where the surprise factor lies, knowing how to create new things without losing the basis of the creation with all its limitations.